Wall Herb Garden


In celebration of Earth Day, April 22, I put together an Herb Garden for my little backyard space in the hopes of using fresh, organic herbs for my cooking (or just rub their little leaves so it will release their lovely fragrance).  Very Earth friendly.  Very Simple to make.



I started with a pallet that I found on the side of the road.

My friend Jessica cutting the pallet into sections

My friend Jessica cutting the pallet into sections

If you cannot find a pallet just laying around, I have been told that Home Depot will sell you one for $20.  I have also grabbed a few from a local tile retailer.  They leave them by the dumpster, so thankfully, I don’t have to actually dumpster dive for them.  (I highly recommend that a wood product you get from any questionable location sit outside your home/garage for a few days to ensure it doesn’t have any unwanted visitors and then brush it down really well before bringing into your work space.)


My original pallet has been cut down into pieces and the first section of it was used to help my dear friend, Jessica, build herself a cute little rustic wine rack.  Read that post here.

I cut a similar section for myself to make an equally cute wine rack, but as the weather began to warm, my mind started turning towards my outdoor spaces.  I found some inspiration here, here and here.

I started with a section of the pallet and just cleaned it up with sanding.  The best part of this is some of the warm wood starts to show through the grey aged surface and give it such a great look.


Next, I cut a 1 x 4 which I use to close in the bottom of the pallet section and complete the box.  I cut each one a bit short in width to allow room on each end of the bottom for drainage.


Once I aligned the boards inside the bottom, I used my brad nailer to pop some 1.5 in nails along the front and back to hold the boards in place.  (Love my cordless Ryobi AirStrike)


That’s it!  All done!!


Except…….. I decided to add some interest with some bold wording.  I bought some sticky back letters (sticky like Post-It Notes) and a construction grade Sharpie PRO Black pen (fade and water resistant) for about $3 total at the dollar store.


I placed the letters out and then traced around them with a fine point sharpie and then filled them in with the bold tip sharpie.



After I let the ink dry for about 20 minutes (to prevent smearing), I took my sander and did some “aging” of the lettering.


Viola!  So pretty! (ignore the chaos in the background)

To make it ready for planting, I used some landscaping fabric and a staple gun and lined the bottom of the box.  The staple gun was too big to staple fabric all the way around the inside, so I just settled for putting it on the bottom.  This will keep soil from draining out with the water.


I thought about putting the herb garden along the fence, but decided it had much more impact against the brick wall and I had the perfect location.


Masonary Drill Bit, Hex Screw and Plastic Anchor

I marked the location of my holes on both the pallet and the mortar.  Then I used a masonary drill bit and drilled two holes into the mortar.  Then I placed plastic anchors in the holes.  In this case, the plastic anchors will mold around the screw and expand into the mortar to keep the screws from falling out.  Next I drilled holes in the back of the pallet and then started hex screws and aligned them with anchor-filled holes in the mortar and attached them to the wall.


Then I added the few plants that I had (Sweet Basil, Rosemary, and Lemon Balm) and just love-love-love the way it looks.




In fact, one of my next projects will be to use another piece of this pallet and make one for succulent plants.  Plus I have to build some raised boxes for my tomato plants that I am growing from seeds.  I hope to have a bumper crop of cherry tomatoes this summer.

Though I am drawn outside with the arrival of spring, I am still working inside to complete the baseboards in the front hallway makeover and another project I’ve been working on in my daughter’s room.

Lots to share.  Hope you are enjoying Earth Day/Week and doing your part to celebrate this great big ball in the sky that we share.


~ Dona

Stay Calm and Thrive On!







I’m Floored – Front Hall Makeover


I am back to share with you the ongoing front hallway makeover. To this point, I have shared with you the new paint color here, the new lighting here, and the removal of the tile here. The next step is starting the flooring installation that will eventually spread through the family room, bedroom and the bedroom hall.

Floor Plan

After removing the tile, baseboards and leveling the floor, my hallway looks like this.   While it makes a great dance floor for my 12 year old son (who has Michael Jackson moves, by the way). it is finally time to put my new flooring down.

After thinset

After leveling

Laminate vs Wood – My Internal Debate

I mentioned in my last post that I wanted wood floors but specifically, I am installing wood laminate. Laminate is designed to resemble wood or tile but it is actually made of a printed finish layer fused to a composite core.

teak with calculatesMy reasons for going with laminate .vs. wood were Affordabilty and Durability.

Affordability – Laminate flooring can be more affordable by up to $3.00 a square foot or more.

Durability – Laminate has exceptional durability standing up to impact, scratches and fading better than wood products. It is also more forgiving when dealing with uneven or damaged sub-floors.

Even engineered wood flooring (which is a wood product with an engineered core and a veneer of solid wood plank on top) is slightly more affordable than wood, but it has the same durability issues as wood such as fading, scratching and impact damage.  Like wood floors, it can be sanded to remove scratches and resealed, but with engineered wood flooring, that can only be done once since the solid wood portion of the plank is fairly thin.

In my last home, I had engineered wood flooring and it suffered under the wear and tear of toddlers and canine toenails.   Fortunately, I no longer have a toddler doing burn-outs on my wood floors with his battery-powered trike ….. true story,……. but I still have dogs, Texas sunshine and a fairly active teenage household.


The engineered wood flooring in my previous home

Bottom line, laminate is affordable, durable, and as warm and beautiful as real wood.

Learning How To Install

I started this phase with reading every DIY blog I follow and watching every YouTube video I could find to get a complete understanding of the process.  This post won’t be a “How To”, since there are so many videos on how to do this, many of these are here, here and here.

Tools for the Job

To remove baseboards, install and modify the laminate wood planks, I collected my tools for the job:

1. Box Cutter (for cutting underlayment)
2. Duck Tape (for taping together underlayment)
3. Handheld circular saw and jig saw (for making needed cuts to the flooring)
4. Multipurpose tool (for trimming under door frames to put flooring up to the wall frames)

5. I recommend a Laminate Flooring Installation Kit, which includes a tapping block, a pull bar and several wedge spacers.

41UJWxQAWxL6. Oh, and Ear Protection (for all the noise I make)


The Underlayment

The first step is to lay down the underlayment. This is primarily the vapor barrier (as well as providing some sound absorption) and will need to allow a few inches above the wall at each end and along the adjacent wall. This will be trimmed down after installation along the top of the flooring and then further covered with either baseboard, quarter round (if you aren’t removing your baseboards before installation) or transition pieces between flooring types.

The underlayment I chose had a sticky strip that allowed me connect the strips together. However, most just require duck tape to connect them to create a complete barrier between the flooring and sub-floor.

Helpful Hint:  Laminate flooring tends sound a bit hollow when you walk on them.  A quality underlayment will provide better sound baffling.

 The Flooring

I chose a floating laminate floor that locks together and floats over the sub-floor. They call it Angle/Tap, which means you fit the pieces together at an Angle and then lock it down or in tight fitting spaces, Tap the interlocking pieces together. Once you get the hang of it, it can go pretty fast.


Keeping Square

The most important things to remember when putting down the flooring is that keeping the first two or three rows as straight and plum as possible. My dad kept checking square with an L-shaped Carpenter Square and if the seams were exactly perpendicular to the wall, then we were square. Once the first few rows where in, we did not need to keep checking, though we did. While walls are never truly square, and you may find yourself with some odd measurements against the opposite wall, don’t be alarmed. Just maintain your square against your starting wall and your floor will flow nicely.


Helpful Hint:  The first few rows may start to detach as you are trying to snap a new piece into place.  Use painters tape to keep the first few rows together while you maneuver new planks into place.

Allow for expansion

All floors, whether wood or composite, will expand and contract and the weather cools and heats up. It is important to keep a 1/4 space between your wall and your flooring. If you are removing the baseboards, then the measurement starts at the wall. If you are keeping your baseboards and using quarter round, then the measurement starts at the baseboard. This spacing will keep your floors from buckling when the wood expands.


Helpful hint:  If the drywall ends before it hits the sub-floor, then staple or nail the shims/wedges to the wall to keep them from being pushed underneath the drywall line.  A floating floor will shift as it is being worked.

Alternate Starting Lengths

The planks should be staggered to keep seams from lining up. My first row was started with an shortened plank that was cut to room approximately 18 inches. Then the next row was started with a full plank. On my floor, we only alternated every other row, but you can start a 3rd row with a plank shortened to another length and then have a three row pattern alternating the startling length size.

We completed the hallway with 9 rows of planks and only one area that just kicked-our-booty challenged our jigsaw skills.

While we removed all the baseboards, we did not remove the door casings and with a “bend and snap” (my description, not a technical term), sometimes it was frustrating a challenge to get the floor to slid into place under the casing without somehow ruining the plank.


Even before the baseboards were purchased and installed, I was quick to sweep and mop after we got the flooring completed and moved my stuff back in right away. I love it. Everything I thought it would be.


Here is the before:

After Paint Crush


While this floor will continue into the family room, I rolled the living room carpet back into place and it gives it a complete look for the moment (just ignore those uneven places under the carpet).   I will be on my own for the rest of the rooms I have planned.  My Dad was in town for just 2 weeks and we got so much done with the tile removal and the great start for the installation.  This was the last of many projects we tackled, which I also plan to share in a few posts over the next few weeks.

To complete the Hallway Makeover series, I will share with you the finishing touches to the baseboards, adding art and even share some things I want to do to the doors in this hallway.

If you managed to read this all the way through, I appreciate your patience and hope you learned something new or better yet, feel inspired to tackle a flooring project in your home.  Do you have an area of your house that is reaching a critical mass frustration level?  Leave your comments below.

~ Dona

Stay Calm and Thrive On!










It’s a Wash!


A few months ago I posted about my washer issue here and used RepairClinic.com to diagnose the problem and then ordered a new lid switch. All I had to do was provide my model number and chose from of a list of issues and viola!, I had a part on the way. (The advantage of RepairClinic.com is that you can return the part for a full refund if it turn out that it’s not what’s broken)


In the interim, a piece of wood (clothes pin) shoved into the lid switch slot was keeping my laundry humming along. And because of that, I simply put the part aside until I had time to review the online video for disassembling the washer and installing the new part. Which I never did …..


Ultimately, my wood-in-slot solution failed (since the part itself was failing) and once again I was staring into a placid tub of water full of clothing and no way to initiate a cycle that would drain it. I was forced to implement a repair.

I finally was compelled to sit down and review the online video for replacing the part was shocked to see how easy it was to get to the part in question. Frankly, I was concerned it was going to be an all day job with lots of little screws and parts removal. A real dirty under-the-car kind of approach.

In fact, I had to remove 2 screws and remove 2 clamps to remove the wash machine casing. Then I had to remove to more screws and 2 more clamps to remove the old part. The new part snapped into place, add screws, add clamps and I was done!!! Fifteen Minutes tops!


What really added time to the effort was finding and removing all the dirt and gooey grime from the machine casing that had been hiding from my cleaning cloth underneath the control module. Yuck!


It took a spackle knife to scrape it off in various areas and a little WD40 to clean up the nasty-no-see parts before reassembling the washer.


I took full advantage of the disassembly and cleaned everything I could reach and when the machine was back together and plugged in, it was like having a brand new machine. The best part, it worked. No more clothes pin in the lid switch slot and a super clean machine to boot!


And here’s a parting shot of the old part. This little fella put in a good days work for more years that I can even count (probably around 10).



When all was said and done:

30 minutes of repair and cleaning – $0

New Lid Switch Part – $39.55 (inc. $6.95 shipping)

Total – $39.55

That is less than the $70 service call that my home warranty requires per visit.

While replacing this part, I posted a picture of my disassembled machine on my Instagram account with a note that I was in the middle of a repair. It was suggested at least twice that I just give it up and replace the machine. It does seem like the easiest solution and who doesn’t want new toys?! However, I have a rather large vacation planned this summer for me and the kids and there is no room for both a new washer and an awesome vacation in my Single Mom Budget. I would rather have an awesome vaca for me and my kids to remember for years to come ….. plus it gives me bragging rights that I fixed it myself. Win-win!

Have you ever tackled something you thought would be complicated and was surprisingly easy? Feel free to post your brags in the comment section. I read all your comments.

~ Dona

Stay Calm and Thrive On!










It’s Hammer Time! Demolition-Style


The front hall makeover continues with what turned out to be my most naive expectation and subsequently, my most challenging of DIY endeavors (to date).

I wanted wood flooring.

And I wanted warm floors to offset my cool-toned walls.   I had this vision in my head of walking in the front door and seeing wood (or in this case, laminate-pretending-to-be-wood) flooring stretching from the hallway to the family room windows in one, long, seamless inviting ribbon of honey flavored warmth.

Floor Plan

Since my living area looks like this, I decided that it would make the most sense to do the front hall, bedroom hallway, family room, master bedroom since they were all connected and I wanted a seamless transition from room to room.  I calculated the square footage and then added 10% (recommended) to cover mis-cuts and other inefficiencies and came up with 1200 square foot of needed flooring supplies.  I found this great deal on the flooring at a local distributor (Floor & Decor) and fell for a smooth laminate flooring in a warm teak.

teak with calculatesI rented a truck and hauled home the 50 packages of flooring and the 12 rolls of underlayment.  Only at that point did I hesitate as I was staring at this pyramid of wood  and plastic and wondered briefly if I was taking on too much.   Nah!!!  Let’s get this party started!!!


Me and My Dad (Cohort in DIY)

This party-start was going to require the removal of 90 square feet of 18×18 tiles from my front hall.


With the help of my awesome Dad, we set up a curtain of plastic around the perimeter of the hallway, anticipating lots of dust, then turned off  the heating/cooling system to keep the dust from being circulated throughout the house through the air duct system.


The first clue that this was going to be a bigger challenge than we had anticipated was how long it took to break up the first tile with a small 3lb sledge hammer. Hmmmm….. nada.  Then we attacked the tile with a 10lb sledgehammer and managed to only break apart the first tile.  Clearly, this was going to take some serious power.  So, we went to Home Depot to rent a Demolition Hammer … an unexpected expense.

Demo Drill

We rented it for a 24 hour period and came home and began attacking the tile with a vengeance.  To say that it went much faster is an overstatement and in about an hour we had all the tile busted up.  To say that it kicked up a TON of dust, was also an understatement.  I wish I could say that it all stayed in the curtained area, but it didn’t.


Dust and more dust

We moved the trash polycart around to the front door and started loading it with busted tile and we began to notice that not all the thin-set came off with the tile. The floor was thickly pocked with it and it wasn’t coming up easily.  We tried to utilize the scraper attachment with the Demo Hammer and it just wasn’t getting the job done.

My son getting in on all the demo fun

My son getting in on all the demo fun

We went back to Home Depot to ask some questions and get some answers on how to fix this.  I was told that 18×18 tiles require a much thicker coat of thinset, so this is why the stuff was so strangely and unexpectedly thick (belying it’s name here, hence my confusion).  These were our options:

  • Continue to work with the Demo Hammer and scraper, but add water to soften the thin-set a little bit and possily keep the dust to a minimum.  No guarantees that it will all come up and requires ongoing rental of the Hammer Drill.
  • Rent a diamond bladed scraper to grind it off.  This would cost over $100 a day or more depending on how many scraping discs I would need for the job.
  • Apply a leveling compound.  It’s $25 a bag and could take several bags.  This could raise the floor level and make my dreams of a transition-less flow from room to room less of a reality.
  • Hire a professional.  Cost unknown cause I’m a DIY till I Die kinda girl.

I researched online for a few days to see if there was some magical and effortless way to remove the thinset without all the heavy machinery and cost.  Finally, I had to resign myself that it wasn’t going to be easy and after deliberating with my Dad, we opted to try again with the Demo Hammer, as it was the cheapest solution to try first.


Working in sections and with lots of water, we kept working on removing the stubborn thin-set.  We worked in shifts.  I did a 3 tile area, my Dad worked until I realized he did more than 3 tiles and kicked him off, then I did my 3 tiles and then my Dad worked until I kicked him off …. you get the idea.  The man was tireless.


Here’s me trying to work my day job while my dad is demo-ing thinset

After 12 solid hours of hammer drilling, we had done the best that we could.  It was far from perfect, and there were uneven places that we needed to fill in.  We marked and filled those with concrete filler and let it dry overnight.


I still wasn’t happy that my concrete base was not perfectly smooth, I broke down and bought a couple of bags of leveling compound and leveled out the floor.   In this case, since most of the thinset was removed, there was less of a chance of raising the floor to such a level that it would create a drop into the hallway and family room.

After thinset

After leveling compound and my son dancing on the smooth floor

After letting that dry overnight, we were able to begin installation of the new floor.  What a relief, since I had 50 boxes of flooring that I was in no mood to return to the store, since I had to rent a truck and commandeer child-labor to unload it all in the first place.

In the breathing space between demo, floor prep and actual installation, I compiled a list of  take-away lessons from this effort:

1. Hire a professional to remove a tile floor no matter how small the area.  I DIY-till-I-Die but I’m not stupid enough to die twice on the same effort.
2. It may only take 2 hours to remove the tile with that great demolition hammer from the HD tool rental place …… Rent it for 24 hours because the rest of the time will be spent trying to remove the thinset left behind…..
3. Thinset belongs to the cement, concrete and mortar family. A close member… like an immediate sibling….

4. Use lots of water during demo to keep the dust to a minimum.
5. A 6 x 18 foot room of broken tile will exceed the 300 lb capacity for the polycart
6. You won’t know you have exceeded the capacity until you try to roll it back across the lawn and it sinks. (Picture me and my Dad rolling it 2 feet at a time feeding strips of cardboard underneath to keep it from sinking into the lawn)
7. The garbage truck mechanical arm is unable to lift a polycart that exceeds its 300 lb capacity
8. You will have to add the garbage people to your Christmas purchasing list.

I’m going to let that sink in before I share with you the flooring part of this project and feel free to share any words of wisdom from your own projects.


Stay Calm and Thrive On!

Spring Break 2014


Just taking a few days off from blogging, working and DIY-ing to enjoy a few days just living. Spring is teasing us Texans with some delightfully warm days and then a sudden cold and windy day. Such are the Ides of March.

I have a few projects completed to share and a few in the works, but I wanted to stop and smell (plant) the roses (petunias). Home Depot had a great deal on pint size plants for 78 cents so I snagged a few. For less than $8 I got Petunias, sweet smelling Alyssum and something else that is purple and white and I can’t remember the name. I pulled out my window box planters and filled them with dirt and flowers and put them outside my bedroom window.


So pretty.

Now I get a beautiful reminder of spring every time I look towards my bedroom window.


I’ll be back with more of my Hallway Makeover in my next post. Till then, remember to break for Spring!!

~ Dona

Stay Calm and Thrive On!!!

Single Mom Living – 15 Minutes At A Time


If you are like me, you didn’t expect to be doing this Single Mom journey at all.  You thought you would have a partner in life that would be the Ying to your Yang and would always be there for the hand-off whether juggling household chores or managing the soccer schedules.


But life is what happens when we are busy planning, or so I’ve heard.

Instead, I have to be mom and dad, chauffeur and cook, housekeeper and bill payer and handy-woman.  As such, it is difficult to get it all done, as I am the primary breadwinner, too.  There is no hand-off when the dishes need to be done and the Xbox isn’t working at a crucial gaming moment.   No one to drive the kids to their appointments while I make dinner or work.   No one to referee another sibling-screaming-match so I can go melt down in the back room.   Yep, I got no answers for you there, either.  Its just me, for better or worse, until death I do part.  That’s the surviving part of this journey.

The Thriving part of this journey is to raise my children, make a comfortable and inviting home, make great memories and ensure my kids have a childhood they can look back on and smile and say “Remember when…..”.  There is no broken home here.  This is a complete family with Mom, two kids, four dogs, assorted fish…. oh,  and two frogs.

family-mom-with-girl-and-boy-3cThe goal is to not let the sometimes overwhelming efforts of this journey smother my joy and my sense of accomplishment that comes with all it entails.  I refuse to give in to a basic colorless life and that means biting off more than I can chew at every possible occasion.


There is a question about “How do you eat an elephant”?  The answer is “One bite at a time”.  It’s a philosophy I share with my kids when they get overwhelmed by a school project or a reading assignment or even cleaning their rooms.  One bite at a time translates into 15 minutes at a time.

thI can do anything for 15 minutes.

I usually start my day with several lists of things I would like to accomplish.   A list of items for Work, Personal/Household “To Dos” and then my Projects.  I get so much joy from my projects but the other lists would keep my projects from being a priority since work and household responsibilities are crucial.


Again, I can do anything for 15 minutes.

After my lists are up-to-date, I start my timer.  For 15 minutes I work on my work items that need to get addressed.  I’m a bit ADD, so knowing that I only have to focus for 15 minutes, keeps me from launching a news website to chase some question that pops into my roaming mind while I wait for stuff to load for work.  When the timer is done, I set it again for 15 minutes and head off to start a household chore, like laundry, or emptying the dishwasher.  You would be surprised to know that it usually only takes 5 minutes to unload a dishwasher!  No lie!  I was surprised, too.


I can do anything for 15 minutes.

After that timer is done, I start the timer again for 15 minutes and I am back at my desk working on my work stuff.  When the timer is done, I decide at that point do I need to focus on another work-related item, or should I flip the laundry, or make a grocery list, etc.   Then I set the timer for 15 minutes…… You see how that works.

How do I get my projects done?   Every 2 hours or so, I add in 15 minutes for a project related item.  For example, today I am painting baseboards for my daughter’s room.  I have set them up in my office on sawhorses and I have my supplies laid out in the Kitchen.  I set that all up in the first 15 minute interval.  The next time I have 15 minutes for my project, I apply a coat of paint.   The next time, I apply another coat of paint.   The next time, I clear my supplies and clean my brushes.    Later on tonight, I will install them in my daughter’s room.

I am my most productive for 15 minutes.  And, I don’t beat myself up if I don’t get it ALL done.  Any progress is better than on progress at all.

This works great for a busy work week.  How about the weekends?  Well, if I can’t just spend all day working on my projects because of other activities, I will set the timer for 15 minutes and do what I can before the kids get up or between activities.

Is my house always clean, are my bills always paid on time….?  Not always, but when I start to feel overwhelmed by what hasn’t been getting done, I make a list and set a timer.  And when I feel exhausted and want to spend the entire day on the sofa watching 15 seasons of a series on Netflix, I set the timer for 30 minutes on the sofa and 15 minutes getting something done.  Strangely, I do feel lazy and productive at the same time.  Weird, huh?  But it works for me and it can work for you too.

There are no rules, just set the timer and do what I can for 15 minutes and sometimes that is all it takes to get me over the mental hurdle that is keeping me from getting started.


Don’t just survive this Single Mom journey, Thrive!!!

Give it a try and let me know how it works for you.

~ Dona

Keep Calm and Thrive On!

If a coat tree falls in the hall ……..


The front hallway makeover takes on the functionality and deadly threat of the hall coat tree, which makes a wonderful design element with its undulating curves and black wrought iron. Except for the part where it crashes to the ground when coats and leashes are heaped upon it in an unbalanced manner. Then its not so cute.


Taking my inspiration from this post, I wanted to design a coat rack for the front hall that would handle the onslaught of coats, backpacks and leashes along with a shelf for some decorative items.

Originally, I was going to build the shelf with 1×3’s and 1×4’s, but realized that I could rip these from a single piece of 3ft x 5ft MDF and save some money and have a slimmer profile. I wanted the shelf to be approximately 3 feet wide to fit within the dimensions of the wall behind the door swing.


  • 3ft x 5ft MDF – 3/4″ thick
  • 4ft of decorative molding
  • 4 ft of shoe molding

Cut a 6″ x 3′ width board for the top shelf. I used my table saw, but this can also be done with a circle saw and a straight line.

Cut a 8″ x 32″ width board for the backing. The top shelf overhand this board by 2 in on each side.

Attach the top shelf to the back board with glue and nails (a nail gun works great here) to create an L shape.


Measure and cut the decorative molding with a 90 degree angle (with a miter saw) that stops at each end of the board and attach it to the back board underneath the shelf.

After several horrible attempts at cutting a piece of crown to wrap around each end of the back board, I finally got it right. Not going to give any direction on this. I still haven’t quite mastered the miter cuts yet.


Next, I applied shoe molding along the edge of the top shelf. This will keep the decorative items from sliding off.

To get a smooth finish for the paint, I applied caulking to cover all the gaps between the MDF and the molding.


I chose to paint my coat rack with White Glossy spray paint.


I applied 2 coats and when it was dry, I added 5 coat hooks. I really like the coat hooks in the original post so I went to Hobby Lobby and got them for my coat rack. So, even though I replaced the wrought iron coat tree, I am keeping an element of the black curves in my own creation.



Even with the MDF, the coat rack was quite heavy so I found two studs in the wall of my choice and I drilled holes in the Crown Molding through to the studs. Then I drilled counter sink holes and attached the coat rack with wood screws. To cover the screw holes, I painted two plugs with white paint and glued them into the counter-sunk screw holes.


Finally, I added some decorative pieces that represent important things for our little family:

  • The Eiffel Tower represents our dreams. My son has an almost obsession with the Eiffel Tower and I hope to take him there someday to see it in person.
  • The Camera represents our reality…. captured in pictures and my passion for documenting our lives in photographs.
  • The Family Rules represents our attitude. This is how we should treat each other and others.
  • The Number 3 represents us. We are a family of 3. Just the 3 of us.

I am very happy with how beautifully it turned out and the functionality of it. Even Romeo is happy to see his leash at easy access without the threat of a falling coat tree.


Hope you like it and your comments are always welcome.

~ Dona

Stay Calm and Thrive On!